
There's something both appealing and terrifying about the fact that no matter how long you live in London, how much you walk its streets, you can never encompass it. The sheer overwhelming sprawl of the city (which is being counted here as everything within the M25) means that the idea of covering the whole place, either on foot, by bus or one of those newfangled automobiles, is inherently absurd. Even if by some miracle of longevity and unemployment you manage to traverse it, there's still the tunnels, the sewers and the passages to bunkers, the private roads and gated-off places that you'll never, ever be able to get into. This leads to the creation of different Londons, something that can stay as the banal estate agent's cliche of a patchwork of interlocking villages, or be a spur to the attempted discovery of another London entirely - a place where all its horrors and contradictions might be effaced.

‘daintily alights Elaine
hurries down the concrete station
with a frown of concentration
out into the outskirts’ edges…’Having never been a resident of suburbia proper, one of my favourite imaginary Londons is Metroland. Not really Betjeman's version - too twee, too damned English - but the London suggested by the work of
Charles Holden. As with all the great London architects (Wren, Nash, Lubetkin) this was a deliberate, doomed attempt to impose order upon mercantile chaos. The 1930s tube stations, their redbrick vanilla Modernism, are so often at odds with their Mock Tudor surroundings that they suggest another city entirely. On my way to Cockfosters I stopped off at Arnos Grove, the most renowned of his stations, both to have a look inside its concrete drum and to use its toilets, a fine facility for such small stations (and something not repeated until 60 years later, with the surprisingly wonderful Jubilee line extension). The loos were closed, so I had to nip into an enormous bogus-boarded Beefeater round the corner, as if to prove my original point. Waiting inside the station though, you notice the sheer totality of the conception here, with benches, clocks, signs, all in a strange Middlesex Constructivist style. Then ten minutes later and out into Cockfosters, and - it's almost a shock. A harsh, bare concrete hangar, proto-brutalist if anything, promising a gateway into the Kraftwerkian Europe-Endless with much more panache than does St Pancras. Holden seemed to toss these surprises out, then forget them - by the end of his life he was creating timid, bland buildings like Birkbeck and SOAS, risible in the glacial presence of his earlier Senate House.


All the contradictions of my Metroland are in the above two pictures, both a stone's throw from Cockfosters station. One (a slab for Lloyds bank) for all its anemia, could be anywhere - Ghent, Brno, Turin. A curving curtain wall, with some brick infill so as not to be too scary: the sort of bankers' bauhaus that used to fill the City of London (where, no doubt, much of Cockfosters works) until it went pomo, then got Fosterised. The other could only ever be in England. It's called
Betjeman Court. The writer in question could get as enthused about Denys Lasdun's National Theatre as he would more famously over ragstone churches, but sod that - he pledged himself to English suburbia, and they aren't going to give him back. A building so awful that you feel like a churl for getting worked up about it. Walk on a bit to find some less offensive conservatism, a parade of shops in a Decoised Georgian, housing Chinese takeaways and health food - none of the fried chicken joints or charity shops that would make me feel at home, but faintly seductive nonetheless - not
my Metroland, but another one that feels a potentially very pleasant place to disappear into.

The real point of all of this was to ignore as much as possible the majority of my surroundings in order to find evidence that Holden's work had, somehow, penetrated into the suburbia it brought into being (as the presence of a tube station would provoke building, not always the other way round). To confirm a suspicion that there really was some sort of comfortable, quiet Modernist enclave somewhere at the outer reaches. It wouldn't have to be that impressive, just a few houses with
Crittall windows would have done nicely. It didn't actually take too long to find what I was looking for. On the phone, having an argument, appropriately, with someone from Lloyds bank (I felt like walking up to the office and asking if I could talk to them there instead) I wandered into such an enclave. Heralded by an isolated rectangular clock-tower, you come to an open, empty sports field, with what is apparently the De Bohun school at the end of it, a thing of redbrick and glass that evokes, interestingly enough, Frederick Gibberd's original buildings for Heathrow Airport. An international style tamed and anglicised, looking a little baffled at all the mess below.

The journey to the Northern periphery was rather more fun than the one to the South. If I willfully blind myself to the fact that it was these people who kept Thatcher in power and who may presently elect Boris Johnson, I could live in the edges of North London, with its kosher Chinese restaurants, parades of shops, those fantastic Crittals windows (NB I would only live there if I could have a set of the latter), and the general sense of living out the catastrophe at a safe remove, able to see it as a panorama from hills and recreation grounds. The South feels rather meaner - petit-bourgeois, close enough to London proper to be brutally snobbish about it. But not at first - Surbiton station, gleaming and glorious, then a parade of almost art nouveau shops round a corner, then some more redbrick moderne (ignoring several thousand dwellings along the way).

On being dropped off near Kingston, the mystery of the Northern suburbs is nowhere to be found. The pubs are smug, with jokey signage and punning names. There's enough leftovers of the time when it was genuinely rural to make it rather irritating - real mews, actual cottages, even what I have to describe as a babbling brook. All this is lifted only by the discovery of a stone in a creaky, silly little Spiritualist church, reminding that the creator of the urbane, drug-addicted Holmes lived out his last days as an adherent of this faintly sad creed, apparently driven to it by grief.
To the Angel World. Then, next to an especially egregious pub, you find this view - extraordinary, and fantastically London, of a game of football in front of some Queen Anne concoction and looming in the distance, a bulging creature which I wonder might have the hand of
Luder behind it, what with its strange appendages and curves, if given a lick of paint or some kind of facing rather than left roughly brut. So I get the bus from round the corner to the Alton Estate, Roehampton.

Alton, for those who haven't read any of the thousand 1960s architecture books that mention it, is the London County Council's ingenuous attempt to create Le Corbusier's
Ville Radieuse, a huge section of parkland next to Richmond where former slum dwellers were settled. The place was fairly doomed for not having a tube or rail station in even walking distance, but for that has aged well, at least away from the harsh shopping sector of the estate, where the true poverty of the place becomes inescapable, stalked as it is by unkempt, confused looking middle aged men. Alton, once dubbed 'the best low-cost housing development in the world', is now divided into 'neighbourhoods', denoted by plastic signs and far from Neue typographie, but architecturally it was divided between the softs and the hards, the communists and the non-aligned, the empiricist and the new brutalist. Alton East, the first section, planned by Swedish influenced, CPGB linked architects, is in what was pejoratively called 'people's detailing': rather absurdly, as embellishment doesn't go beyond some cute Festival of Britain entrance tiles at the tower blocks. It's pleasant, and I expect a nice place to live if you don't mind having to travel to Barnes to get anywhere, but not somewhere anyone but the most obsessive Modernist-nostalgist would visit. It's also far from photogenic, hence is not in any of these pics. Designed for people - for the tenants - rather than visiting aesthetes, maybe.

Corbusier's Ville Radieuse plan was reckoned by
Patrick Abercrombie, the planner of postwar London, to bridge the gap between the Modernists and the garden cities, being a futurist equivalent to the open spaces, greens and semis of the 1930s' furiously duplicated little utopias. That's as maybe. At the edge of Alton West the spaces are all textured concrete and geometry, but what might have seemed like inhumanity is always tempered by some ingenious touch, like the tiny cubic cottages that run zigzag up and down the hills. This is the New Brutalists having their first flourish, before they too became pejorative. But the finest moment of this imaginary London is unlike anything else in Britain or elsewhere. You can't photograph all of this, either, not without a panorama. Block after block, lining up on the top of a shallow, verdant hill. To get to the blocks you have to walk under trees, then when you get there you can walk under the buildings surrounded by the trunks of pilotis. This, finally, at the periphery in every sense, is the other London, the one you've been looking for, where Modernism has transformed the landscape totally, entirely, without so much as a metro station as inspiration. Elegant and weird, with a shaggy, compacted bull as public sculpture. And you can't just move here, you
get moved here.
